Showing posts with label 345 355. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 345 355. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 12, 2020

Replacing Pickups in a Semi-Hollow Guitar ES 335 notes for my guitar







Matsumoku Guitar 330 copy Japan with DiMarzio pickups, possibly with a Jaguar 3x swich.

Rewiring a Semi-Hollow Guitar, Part One  

Will Kelly

Rewiring a Semi-Hollow Guitar, Part Two



Notes:
Humbucker Filter'Tron Pickups .022uf is what he uses. I think they were used on Gretsch Guitars' 

I'm thinking of a used set of Fralins or other high quality pickup in that 7.5-8.5k P.A.F. type range or Gibson Classic '57s LPC reissue like the orginal

For the warmer vintage vibe, Seths and Lollars are great. I particularly like a lo-wind Lollar in the neck. For way less money, the Di Marzio 36th anniversary set is great sounding and will Rival the Boutiques!

pick up types
Up......Neck
Middle.....middle & Bridge
Down......Bridge.
Types of Pot kits
WKSG-VNT Vintage Style Guitar Wiring Kit for USA Gibson CTS Pots ES-335/SG®

ToneShaper Guitar Wiring Kit, for ES-335



Need 

Truss Rod Cover. For Gibson


Truss Rod Cover. For Gibson







Part 1- Reinstalling Semi-Hollowbody Electronics



Part 2- Reinstalling Semi-Hollowbody Electronics




Peter Frampton 3 Pickup Set-up

Three pickups, obviously. There’s a Gibson ’57 in the neck position, a 500-T in the bridge position – it’s pretty loud. The middle pickup is a ’57 Plus. The way they’re wired is different from the way the original three-pickup Les Paul Customs were, but it’s the way my old guitar was wired. The middle pickup was always on with the originals – when you put the toggle switch all the way down, you couldn’t get just the bridge pickup, for example. I treated the guitar’s toggle switch like it works on a two-pickup model, and those two pickups use the top volume and tone knobs. The center pickup isn’t part of the switch at all, and is adjusted by the bottom volume and tone knobs; you blend it in. It’s always on, as was the case for the original three-pickups Customs, but you can turn just the middle pickup off by using the bottom volume control. Bringing it in gives the guitar a sort of a thick Strat sound, and of course, turning the top volume completely off, and having just the center pickup on means that it really sounds like a Strat.

The new signature model also doesn’t have pickup covers.
That’s because I took them off of the originals. In the old days, there was no Seymour Duncan company around, and pickups were pickups, generally on the quiet side. You took the pickup covers off to try to make them louder. People associate that cosmetically with my old guitar, so I went the same route.



for sale






Possible Jaguar pick-ups (Pups)


Top Hat Bell Reflector Knob

 





Guitar Rewiring

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We will NOT be discussing the actual winding or rewinding of pickups. That is much too difficult to accomplish. Instead, we will talk about the circuitry inside of a guitar. By making some very minor modifications (particularly switching), a guitar's sound can be changed dramatically.


Volume and Tone Controls

Although we will be primarily discussing switching, let us first show 2 wiring diagrams of a guitar's volume and tone controls.
NOTE: In these diagrams, the volume and tone controls are viewed from the rear. The volume and tone controls are variable resistors, also known as potentiometers (or "pots" for short). In electric guitars, the values for either of these usually is about 250K to 1 megohm. The capacitor in the circuit is for the tone control and these values usually are from .02 to .047 mfd (short for microfarad).

The top diagram shows the way in which Fender wires its volume control. (This is the best way to wire a master volume control). Fender generally uses 250K "pots" and .02 mfd capacitors.

The bottom diagram shows the wiring that Gibson uses for its volume controls.
This is the best wiring method to use when you are using a volume and tone control for each pickup.
When both pickups are active, this circuit allows one pickup to remain active when one volume control is turned all the way down.
Gibson generally uses 500K "pots", .047 mfd capacitors for the neck tone and .02 mfd capacitors for the bridge tone control.



SPDT Switch

Rewiring a guitar can dramatically change its sound. If you are unsure of basic switch terminology, please go to this tutorial first: Switches

Pictured above are two Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT) switch diagrams.
ALL SPDT switches have their common terminal in the middle and they ALL function as shown in the above diagram.
In position 'A', the center terminal connects to the top terminal. In position 'B', the center terminal connects to the bottom terminal.



There are 2 special cases of SPDT switches that have the functions as shown in diagrams A & B plus they have a third position whereby the common terminal connects to both outer terminals (diagram C) OR the common terminal connects to neither terminal (D).
These are called the "SPDT center on switch" (C) and the "SPDT center off switch" (D).
These switches are called center on or off because this third switch position is located in between 'A' and 'B'. For example, if this were a toggle switch, this middle or 'center' position would occur when the switch lever was straight up.
Even though these switches have 3 positions, they are still considered double throw because another 'throw' implies a connection to yet another terminal and as we can see, diagrams C & D have the same number of terminals as A & B.

The best example of an "SPDT center on switch" is the pickup switch used on guitars with 2 pickups (the Gibson Les Paul™, the Gibson SG™, etc).

Pictured above is the pickup switching diagram for a 2 pickup guitar.
On the right is a single pole double throw switch (SPDT) center on switch.
The middle connection is the 'common' terminal and this is where you connect the output wire. (This is the wire that goes to the volume control or may go directly to the output jack).
Basically, when the switch lever is in one position, the neck pickup is active and in the other position, the bridge position is active.
In the 'middle' switch position, both pickups will be 'on'.
This SPDT center on switching arrangement is extremely common on 2 pickup guitars.



DPDT Switch

ALL DPDT switches have their center terminals as the common terminals and they ALL work like diagrams A and B.
In position 'A', the common terminals connect to the top terminals and in position 'B', they connect to the bottom terminals.


There are 2 special cases of DPDT switches, pictured in diagrams 'C' and 'D'.
Diagram C shows the middle position of the more common type of "DPDT center-on switch". Here the common terminals connect to the top and bottom terminals simultaneously. This is the typical DPDT center on switch that you would find at Radio Shack and most electronic parts suppliers.

Diagram D shows the middle position of a highly specialized type of DPDT center-on switch. Here the common terminals connect as shown in the diagram.
Some refer to this as a "DPDT on/on/on switch" but as you can see, the switch in Diagram C could be referred to in the same way. The biggest use of this switch is for wiring humbuckers in series / coil-cut / parallel. This is the only way you can get all 3 options in one switch.


Now that you know about switches, let's talk very briefly about:

Guitar Pickups
If you read about relays, you will learn that an electromagnet is a chunk of metal (usually iron), wrapped with a great deal of wire. When an electrical current flows though the wire, a magnetic field is produced.
guitar pickup is the reverse of this whereby we start with a magnet and wrap a huge amount of wire around it (thousands of turns, usually). When guitar strings (or any metal) moves through the magnetic field, an electrical current is produced.

In the next section, we'll discuss various switching arrangements of a guitar's pickups so that a great many tones can be produced.
Just remember that:
• Any modification you do to your guitar will void the warranty.
• Some of these modifications will change the appearance of your guitar.
• If you are not sure of your electronic skills you may actually do damage to your guitar for which we will not be responsible.
• Similarly, you may alter the guitar in such a manner that it becomes unsafe electrically in which case you could be harmed. Again, we will not be responsible for any injuries.



3 Single Coils Wired In Parallel

This diagram shows 3 single coils wired in parallel, allowing seven tone choices. The typical 3 single coil guitar contains a 5 way rotary switch which allows you to get 5 sounds - each single coil; neck and middle in parallel and middle and bridge in parallel. This modification will give you 2 more sounds - all 3 pickups in parallel and Neck and Bridge in parallel.



3 Single Coils Wired In Series

This diagram shows 3 single coils wired in series, allowing seven tone choices. Note that the switches are wired such that they shunt (or short-circuit) the coils so that they get bypassed.
With this modification, you will not get any parallel sounds which are so typical of the "Fender sound". (For example, "Sultans of Swing" is played with the middle and bridge pickups in parallel). The pickups in series gives you a fuller sound with much higher output, which is good for distortion. If you want a more versatile modification, go to the Wolf Wire™ Modification which will give you series choices, parallel, single coil, and out of phase options.


Humbuckers

Humbucking pickups are essentially 2 single coils right next to each other in one "package". If you want to know how this pickup cancels the hum, click here.
Since there are 2 coils, you can have up to 4 wires with which to work, providing you with a great many tone options. Almost all independent pickup companies manufacture humbuckers with 4 conductor cable. Stock guitar humbuckers rarely have 4 wires coming out of them but sometimes it is possible to convert 2 wire humbuckers to 4 wire types. This is an exacting procedure with little room for error but the tone rewards can be well worth the effort. If you really want to give this a try, then click here.

Pickup wire colors vary for each manufacturer. Two of the most popular manufacturers are Dimarzio and Seymour Duncan and their wiring codes are:

Additional pickup wire colors can be found here.

The traditional method for wiring a humbucker is to wire the coils in series:

If you wanted to wire a 4 conductor Dimarzio or Seymour Duncan in this way, just look at the diagram. Solder the 2 "middle wires" together, tape the connection, then solder the outer wires to the output. Be very careful when working with 4 conductor wiring. The colors and polarity are very important. You could easily make a mistake and wire an "out-of-phase" arrangement which would have low output, a squawky, thin sound AND the humbucker would NOT be hum canceling.

Another humbucker advantage is that the 2 coils make it have a much higher output than a single coil pickup. This gives them a much fuller sound and produces a "fat" warm overdriven sound.

Sometimes though, this extra output might be a little too "muddy" than you'd want it.

Wiring the coils in parallel will produce a brighter tone (with somewhat less volume than series), but will still be humbucking.

Again, the humbucker could be permanently wired in the manner shown in the above diagram. However, if you permanently wire the humbucker for series or parallel, you are seriously limiting your tone options.

Rather than settling on just one permanent wiring, a very good choice is to put a series/parallel switch on a humbucker.

The black line you see in the diagram is a "jumper" wire connecting the upper left switch terminal to the upper right terminal. This wire is necessary to connect the 2 "middle wires" so that the humbucker can be connected in series.
The kind of switch you'll need is a Double Pole Double Throw with no center position. (See diagrams A & B in the above DPDT switch section).
In this way you can switch tones right in the middle of a song and you can go from a bright tone to a fuller, louder tone that is quite suitable for overdriving an amplifier.

Yet another tone option for humbuckers is the coil-cut switch.
Here you get a very bright sound but the output will be less than if it were wired in series and you no longer have hum canceling. Since you are using just one half of the humbucker, "coil-cut" sounds best when using a high output pickup (DiMarzio "X2N", DiMarzio "Distortion", Seymour Duncan "Invader", Seymour Duncan "Distortion", etc). A coil cut switch is relatively easy to wire up and it is just a matter of connecting one end of an SPST switch to that junction that was created for series wiring and connecting the other end of the switch to ground. So, we now have another 2 tone humbucker arrangement that can easily be switched back and forth between 2 tone options.


To read more about coil cut switching, please click here.

Still, if you have a humbucker with 4 conductors, you might want to go all the way and wire it for all 3 of the tone options we have discussed. The best way to do this is with a special DPDT on/on/on switch (see Diagram D in the previous section).

This is a "neat" arrangement because you get the 3 best humbucker tone options all in one switch. Still, you might have trouble finding this type of switch OR you might not like having a 3 position toggle switch because it is hard to switch to the middle coil cut position OR you'd rather have a smooth parallel to series switching option.

If that is the case, use a standard DPDT Switch with NO middle position (Diagram A or B) and use a separate SPST switch for the coil cut option.


This arrangement does have all the advantages mentioned above. However it has the disadvantages in that the coil-cut switch will only work when the DPDT switch is set at the 'series' position and it may require another hole to be drilled in your guitar for that additional switch.


Phase Reversal Switch

For single coils OR humbuckers.

Another tone option for a guitarist is to put a pickup out of phase with another pickup, producing a thin "inside-out" squawky kind of sound. When 2 pickups are in phase, they work together and reinforce each other. When they are out of phase the 2 pickups are working against one another and the resulting sound is the "leftovers" from these cancelations. The closer the 2 pickups are, the greater the cancelations, the thinner the sound and the lesser the volume. Therefore, the neck and bridge pickups out of phase is the best choice for this type of sound.
In order to achieve this sound (and to go back to a regular sound), we use a phase reversal switch (see above diagram). (For an explanation of how this switch works, go to Basic Electricity and scroll down to the 'Double Pole Double Throw' section).
It is important to state that you do not have to use 2 phase switches because reversing the leads of both pickups would put them back in phase!!
Wiring the phase switch is fairly simple. Solder 2 wires in the criss-cross manner shown in the diagram. In the guitar cavity, unsolder the 2 bridge pickup leads; solder the phase switch "Out" leads to the exact same spot where the pickup leads were; solder the bridge pickup leads to the "From Pickup" terminals on the phase switch. Mount the switch, close up the guitar and start enjoying the new sound you just created!

Humbucking Pickup Out Of Phase With Itself

As stated previously, the closer 2 coils are to one another, the greater the cancelations will be when they go "out of phase". So, wiring a humbucker out of phase with itself is going to produce a lot of cancelations, a huge reduction in volume and a very thin sound. If that's not enough, the pickup will not be humbucking either. Still there are some people that like this kind of sound. The best way to put a humbucker out of phase with itself is to wire the coils out of phase in series(see below)

Just to make sure we "cover all the bases", it is possible to wire a humbucker out of phase with itself in parallel. This produces the thinnest, lowest output of all possible phasing combinations. Still, for those that want to give this a try here is the wiring diagram.

Other Guitar Rewiring Pages On This Site:

3 Single Coil Guitar Modification (uses 3 SPST and 2 DPDT switches)

3 Single Coil Guitar Modification (uses one 4PDT and four DPDT switches)

Miscellaneous Switching Mods

Guitar Solo Switch

2 Humbucker Mod Using 5 Toggle Switches

2 Humbucker Mod Using 7 Toggle Switches

2 Humbucker Mod - the "Jimmy Page Wiring"

2 Humbucker Mod - "Trey Anastasio's Wiring"

Series Parallel Master Switch for 2 Pickups

Greasebucket Tone Circuit

Bass Cut Tone Circuit

Bass Cut and Treble Cut Tone Circuit

Humbucker Coil Cut Switching

Humbucker Coil Cut Through a Capacitor or Resistor

Humbucker Pickup Wire Colors

Inside of a Humbucker

How A Humbucker Works

Guitar Photos


Three pickups, obviously. There’s a Gibson ’57 in the neck position, a 500-T in the bridge position – it’s pretty loud. The middle pickup is a ’57 Plus. The way they’re wired is different from the way the original three-pickup Les Paul Customs were, but it’s the way my old guitar was wired. The middle pickup was always on with the originals – when you put the toggle switch all the way down, you couldn’t get just the bridge pickup, for example. I treated the guitar’s toggle switch like it works on a two-pickup model, and those two pickups use the top volume and tone knobs. The center pickup isn’t part of the switch at all, and is adjusted by the bottom volume and tone knobs; you blend it in. It’s always on, as was the case for the original three-pickups Customs, but you can turn just the middle pickup off by using the bottom volume control. Bringing it in gives the guitar a sort of a thick Strat sound, and of course, turning the top volume completely off, and having just the center pickup on means that it really sounds like a Strat.

The new signature model also doesn’t have pickup covers.
That’s because I took them off of the originals. In the old days, there was no Seymour Duncan company around, and pickups were pickups, generally on the quiet side. You took the pickup covers off to try to make them louder. People associate that cosmetically with my old guitar, so I went the same route.








Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Lawsuit ES-335 Gibson Like Guitar

IMG_8389.JPG

Lawsuit Guitars, Gibson ES-330, 335, 345 and 355 Reproductions by Mann & Ibanez,

Alan’s Mann-

A702T Guitar

  -Alan Arnell









In 2014, I fulfilled a years old dream of owning a Gibson ES-355 TD Guitar, well sort of.  


When, I was just a small lad my best friend Ron and I one day decided to explore his parent’s storage closet.  In the back on top of a stack of old-dusty cardboard boxes was an acoustic guitar.  It was black and brown and was in a very bad state of disrepair.  I can not remeber the extent of the damage other than the guitar was not playable.


Finding that old guitar was the inspiration for Ron and I to learn and play guitars, that has continued until this day.


Both Ron and I bugged our parents for guitars.  Ron was to receive a guitar first and I was to later be given my cherry red Gibson SG Les Paul Junior.  Link to a post about my ‘First Guitar.”


Eric Clapton
The guitar Ron was given was a brand new Gibson ES-330 or 335 TD.  At the time, I for one, was not crazy about the guitar.  What did I know then, nothing, I was just a kid.  The ES-335 guitar of the day was not depicted in pictures of rock and roll bands that I was looking at on album covers at the time.  My rock heroes of Jimmy Page, Duane Allman , Eric Clapton, Joe Perry and Gary Moore were playing Gibson Les Paul Customs. The Les Paul Custom Guitar was the top of the pyramid in my mind's eye.


Time progressed and I changed my mind about the Spanish Electric 335 guitar.  I wanted a guitar that was a
semi-hollow guitar that played louder, when not plugged into an amp, than my solid-body 
guitars but not as loud as my acoustic guitar.  Old memories
faded back to me and I decided I just had to have a Gibson 335.
Gibson ES-335


The 330, 335 ar 355 Gibson Guitars were just out of my price range.  I found the thin line Gibsons were generally priced from $1,800 to $40,000 both new and preowned.  Being a family man with hobby playing guitar skills, I could not justify paying that amount of money for a guitar.  Then I discovered lawsuit guitars.


I made my mind up to buy a 335 lawsuit guitar with the following conditions.  I always have wanted a guitar with a vibrato unit also called a whammy bar or tremolo bar.  (The use of the word "tremolo" is misplaced. Tremolo refers to volume modulation, whereas vibrato refers to the raising and lowering or raising pitch by changing the tension or length of the strings)  I wanted a blond colored guitar that I saw either George or John play.  The blond guitar proved hard to find for sale.  The lawsuit guitar makers may not have made a blond color, like Gibson?  The vibrato option was rare but not impossible to find.  I relented and bought my second choice which was a sun burst colored guitar with a vibrato bar.  A guitar just like Ron had all those many years ago, minus the vibrato bar.

After a three month search on eBay, I found the guitar I was looking for in the price range ($300) I was willing to spend.  The guitar was advertised as a 70’s MIJ/Japanese 335 hollow-body-archtop, 3-single pickup guitar.  

When I received the guitar, I  was was unable to play my, new to me, guitar, because two strings were missing. I.quickly took it to Guitar Center
for new strings and a tune-up.
Alan's Mann Guitar


The Guitar is great to play.  The strings are a comfortable distance from the neck.  There is no neck up and down play and there was no string buzzing in the higher frets.  


Being a semi-hollow guitar the sound it produced was different than what I was used to, but I soon got over that problem. The thin semi-hollow body is louder than a solid body guitar, but the semi-hollow lacks the acoustic guitar’s fullness of sound.   At first, I could hear a sympathy buzzing during play.  I deciphered that the pickguard screws were loose and once tightened the buzzing went away.    


I enjoy the jazzy sound the guitar has when plugged into an amplifier. However, only two of the 3 pickups work.  I looked inside of the guitar and could see the wires have cracked insulation.  Afraid of causing more problems, I have ceased playing the guitar plugged into my amp.


I am not complaining, when I say that most of the
metal parts on the guitar are pitted.  I knew this before I purchased the guitar. The pitting does nothing to the overall pleasing sound the guitar produces.  The pitting is to be expected for a guitar 40 years old.  Truth be told, the  guitar, even brand new, was marketed as a less expensive alternative to a Gibson.  The guitar plays almost as good as a real Gibson, however the hardware is where the Japanese makers reduced the price of the guitar.


There are no markings on the guitar that tell me the name of its manufacture or serial or model numbers.  The only marking is a inlay design on the “open book” head that resembles the Gibson inlay design, except my guitar’s inlay is smaller and the rectangle part of the inlay design is horizontal rather than angled.  The only marking on the guitar is the word Japan, stamped on the neck bolt cover plate. I tell people that my guitar is a Mann A702T because there is no manufacturer's name on the guitar. I feel the need to call it something. I do not think it is really a Mann, because of lack of a name inlay in the head. I bought the guitar from a New Jersey guitar shop owner which is 3,000 miles from
where the Mann Co, wholesaled thier guitars. There
were many guitar distributors selling the the same guitars under 
different names or in the case of my guitar no name.


So what is a Lawsuit Guitar?

It must be said that there is a great deal of misconceptions and false information about lawsuit guitars being passed around among gutiar people. I will explain in more detail later.


The so called lawsuit era was between the late 1970’s early 1980’s. During that time guitar manufacturers In Japan began to copy or replicate Gibson and Fenders Guitar’s from the 1950’s.  It appears that the Japanese guitar makers literally took vintage guitars and copied them.  Some people say, the Japanese manufacturers copied the American made guitars too closely. The copied guitars were sold originally only in Japan, but eventually made their way to the the US market.  Several companies started copying the American 50’s designs at the same time.  What was maybe good for the consumer and bad for Gibson and Fender was the fact that the copies were really good playing guitars.   Ibanez, Greco, Tokai, Fernandes and Burny were the biggest and most well known makers of lawsuit guitars.


The Japanese made lawsuit guitars had a very accurate feel, quality of wood and construction methods that stayed true 1950’s originals.  The lawsuit guitar makers purchased the same good-quality parts, such as the tuners and pickups, for their guitars. If you were that guy, you could have put a Gibson or Fender logo on many of the lawsuit guitars and easily fooled the average to better than average guitar aficionado.  


The goal of Ibanez, et cetera, was to reproduce the best American made guitars from the golden era, of the 50’s and make them affordable. The early days of reproducing were arguable, for the money, the best guitars ever made.  The playability, attention to detail, and tone of the guitars were extremely good.  

Sadly, at that time American guitar makers, like the auto
market of the same era, were cost cutting to make bigger profits thus producing
a poorer quality product than in years past.


Most of the early reproduced Gibson and Fender guitars made in Japan were sold to the home country consumer.  The first venture into North America was by the Mann Company.  Mann Guitars were only sold in Canada by Great West Imports in Vancouver. MANN sold guitars from 1971 to 1985.   The company is no longer in business.  


The first generation Mann guitars from 1971 to 1976 were made in Japan at the Fuji-Gen Gakki factory, the same as Ibanez and many other brands.  During the early 70’s the factory made enough inventory to last into the late 1970s. The second generation of Mann guitars ranged from 1980 to 1985 and were made in Korea.


The way to tell if a Mann guitar was made in Japan is by where the neck connects to the guitar body. If the neck corners are slightly rounded, the guitar is Japanese made. If the corners are square, it was made by another in Korea
MANN guitars were almost identical to the Ibanez models of the same era. This is the era of the lawsuit guitars or technically, pre-lawsuit, where they were direct copies including the headstock shape and design.  After the lawsuit by Gibson Hoshino Gakki introduced Ibanez models that were not copies of the Gibson or Fender designs such as the Iceman and the Ibanez Roadstar.




Why did Mann and Other Companies Jump into the North American Guitar Market and Why Were They Successful?


When Rock N Roll became mainstream in the 1960s guitars became an important symbol of American popular culture.   Every guy and gal wanted to play guitar. Until this point in time the guitar was considered a passing fancy.  The Beatles were given a pass by a record company in the UK, because the company believed that guitar playing bands were on the way out of popularity.  The beatles of course proved that assumption to not be true. In truth the Beatles set the standard and modus operandi for most of all bands to come after the Beatles.  The Beatle method still works and holds true today, 45 years later.  


The American youth market prompted corporations to venture into the market with a proven product. During this time, corporate owners of Gibson and Fender allowed their products to become, as I stated before, mediocre.  That sad fact along with a lower cost helped youthful consumers to flock to and buy the new guitars from Japan.


Of course many of the first Japanese guitars to reach western markets were cheap, entry-level models designed to capture the burgeoning guitar market.   However, where it all started in Japan there was a blooming appreciation of American Culture.  The Japanese youth wanted the cool and great playing original Gibsons and Fenders Guitars.  But as you can imagine the Gibsons and Fenders were hard to find and
prohibitively expensive.


With that "want and need" by consumers unfulfilled, of course, someone had to step in and exploit the void in the market place for the yearning of American guitars.  Fuji-Gen Gakki and Tokai Gakki began creating fairly faithful replicas of the vintage-style Les Pauls, Strats and Telecasters that the marketplace had come to admire.


The actual nonly lawsuit made by Gibson (Norlin Corporation, Gibson's parent company) against Ibanez (Hoshino USA) was filed in 1977. Gibson in the lawsuit accused Ibanez of copying their headstock design.  The issue was settled out of court.


In 1978 Hoshino abandoned the idea of copying popular American Guitar models and started manufacturing guitars from their own designs. Ibanez began changing the shape of their headstock in 1977 to the current "tulip" shape and the era of the "Lawsuit" guitars was over.


Pre-lawsuit Ibanez guitars with the "open book" headstock are today sought after more than the post-lawsuit guitars. Guitar collectors are getting interested in the lawsuit vintage guitars because of the internet exposure they get. Do they have a better than average vintage value? Maybe. However, the copied guitars compared with the originals will never be the same because for one reason the lower initial price of the guitars.  I hope and many believe the lawsuit guitars will increase in price in the coming years.



Logo of the 70’s



Logo of the ‘80’s


History of the Thinline Archtop Semi-Acoustic Electric Guitar

The world's first commercial thinline archtop semi-acoustic electric guitar was the Gibson ES-335.  Gibson first sold the ES (Electric Spanish) series in 1958, it was neither hollow or solid.  Gibson made the guitar by placing a solid maple wooden block through the center of the guitar’s body. The side "wings" are hollow, and the top had two violin-style F-holes over the hollow chambers.


Before the ES-335, Gibson mainly produced only hollow-body guitars.  Those guitars were well know known for their feedback when the amp was turned to 10.   To satisfy the highly amplified customer who wanted to play at full volume, Gibson produced their first solid-body. The new solid-body guitar was named the Gibson Les Paul.  


The ES-335 was Gibson’s beginning attempt to produce a Guitar with a warmer tone than the solid body designs.  The goal was to have a hollow-body guitar that was feedback free like the solid-body designs.  


The ES-335 were a compromise of earlier designs.  This compromise produced a very flexible playing guitar.  The wide range of play made the ES-335's extremely popularity with blues, jazz, and rock musicians. With a basic price of $267.50 the ES-335 became a great success.  The ES-335’s never failing sales figures has allowed the design to be in continuous 
production since 1958 with only visible change being 
to the markers on neck.  The early models ES-335 
had dots (hence named "dot neck") and later
models had blocks.


Model Variations: (Most Common)
1960 Gibson ES-355 TD 1965 Gibson ES-345 TD 1965 Gibson ES-335 Stereo


  • ES-345: The ES-345 was first produced in 1958 as upscale version of ES-335. with a  featured a multi-position "Varitone" switch.

  • ES-355: The ES-355TD (Thinline semi-hollow, Double pickups) was at the top of Gibson's range of thinline semi-acoustic guitars. It was manufactured from 1958 until 1982, Rather than the rosewood fretboard on a 335 or 345, both variations of the 355 have an ebony fingerboard for a 'smoother' sound. The ES-355 was available with a Vibrola vibrato unit or a Bigsby vibrato tailpiece. It was also available with a stereo output and Varitone tone filter circuitry. When fitted with the optional stereo wiring and Varitone, the model was known as the ES-355TD-SV.


Alex Lifeson of Rush playing an ES-355
  • ES-330 TD:  The ES-330 TD is a little different from the ES-335.  The 330’s neck attaches at the 15th fret whereas the 335’s attaches at the 19th.  The 330 is a thinline guitar that is neither a two thirds or a solid body guitar.  It is a totally hollow-body.  Gibson finally was able to design a hollow-body guitar without feedback issues with the 330. Therefor, the piece of feedback deadening wood is omitted from the body of the guitar.  The 330 has dual cutaway pickups.
Gibson Cherry-Dot SE-330-TD



Final Thoughts;

After all that, do I like my Mann A702T guitar?  You bet.  Would I like to have a Gibson ES-355?  Hell yes!  Gibson Guitars are often imitated but never totally duplicated. And why?  Quality, craftsmanship, playability, mystique and the mystical musical qualities of the Gibson Guitar.  


If you have to have the best or are a professional guitar player, by all means you need a Gibson.  If you are like me a hobby guitar player and also a devout penny pincher you will be more than happy with a pre and post lawsuit guitar.  I know I am!












For references I used my general knowledge and the following web pages:


Mann Guitars
lawsuit info short
Lawsuit info long
Epiphone Casino/Beatles
Gibson 355 info/History
Vibrato unit